ON THE WRIST: Rolex Submariner 41
MONDAY JUNE 10, 2024
PRO
Design perfection
Historic significance
Upgraded clasp
CON
Bulk is not for all
SPECIFICATION
41 mm Diameter
12.8 mm Thickness
100m Water Resistance
70 hours Power Reserve
51.4 mm Lug to Lug
A$ 14,650
This watch is highly desired and could very well be the quintessential image of a watch in an encyclopaedia. The Rolex Submariner is often regarded as the must have watch in any collection and rightfully so for being such an icon throughout history. The Submariner has significantly increased in size since its inception, raising eye brows of those who value wrist comfort and let’s find out how much is too much.
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The latest Sub reference 126610LN was released in 2020 and its case size of 41mm caused quite a stir as it has been tied to 40 for a really long time. Upon measuring with calipers, the dimensions are found to be quite similar to its predecessor, and it is believed that the increase in size was intended to further differentiate it from Tudor.
Going with tradition, the Submariner is brushed on top and polished on its sides making it more tool looking than the GMT-Master and Daytona. In two ways, the new watch is more elegant where it has lost the super case where both the crown lug and lugs have been slimmed down. These decisions are excellent in my opinion, as I consider the entire range of 5-digit professional Rolexes to be design perfection. Most wrists, regardless of gender, can wear them comfortably without suffering from bulk and weight.
The Maxi dial remains largely the same but thicker hour hand and a longer minute hand to balance out the slightly large real estate. The bezel remains ceramic and features a ghost effect depending on how light hits it, adding another layer to the ownership experience. Turning the unidirectional bezel produces 120 clicks, providing an aural and tactile sensation that never gets old. Despite annual price increases, Rolex continues to offer excellent quality for your money.
The Calibre 3230, also found in the entry model Rolex Oyster Perpetual is used in this Submariner. As usual they are reliable and accurate but covered in shame with a closed case bask for its industrial finishing. It now features a power reserve of 70 hours and kept time within the advertised tolerance during its time with me.
The industry standard three-link Oyster bracelet is as good as metal bands go. They distribute the weight of the watch well and are hypoallergenic to the skin. It vents heat well and gives a sportier look compared to a Jubilee bracelet. Featuring a double locking clasp, like all professional Rolexes and the addition of the Glidelock system enables a 2mm tool-free extension when the wrist swells due to environmental temperature changes.
The 124060 Rolex Submariner has taken its lineage to its pinnacle where every single aspect has been perfected without being sterile. That is no easy feat because it is possibly the most important watch in the catalogue with so much historic value to fulfil. We all know what it was, this one look identical and the Submariner is still able to charm us into desiring for another. This original as entree, one with date will be nice too and the one with the green bezel will complete the collection.
The proportions of the Mercedes hour hand and minute hand are perfectly balanced against the minute track. The balance of this Submariner’s case has a prodigious balance to its dial’s triangle, circle and rectangle markers. Excellence continues with the knurling and size of the crown making it functional, comfortable on the wrist. Luminescence is a strong suit which comes as no surprise given it has served its time as a military diving instrument.
There is only one problem and that’s the lug to lug width of the watch. 80 percent of women’s wrist is smaller than 16.5cm while 50 percent of men has a wrist of under 18.4 cm which pretty much rules out all the ladies and a quarter of men. This excludes a large portion of people appreciate the design and historic significance of the Submariner. While we can wear anything we like, being unable to wear them comfortably is not a good feeling and you know what that’s like.
The super case was already introduced when I got into watches and the dimension was the very problem and I left the shop with an Air-King instead. I am certain I am not the only person who find Tudor’s Black Bay 58 range more fitting on the wrist because think of the ladies who too would like to enjoy a Submariner. If you feel the same, I am with you on this and a Black Bay 54 may just plaster that itch.
2020 Rolex Submariner is a demonstration of execution supremacy and the team at Geneva made 67 years of evolution look easy, reigning as the ultimate diving watch and continuing to set the benchmark. The Rolex Submariner is a versatile watch that seamlessly transitions from a Monday meeting to a weekend at the beach. Wearing a Rolex gives you a feeling that cannot be found in any other watch. While other watches may be more finely made or command a higher price tag, if this is what you want, there really is no substitute.
Although vintage inspiration is a strong trend in wristwatches, reverting to neo-vintage Rolex proportions might be too much to ask. Could they at least be made more available?